Start with the brief, not the breed
Write down what the dog must do, where it will live, how many hours a week you will train, who else is in the household, and what you will do with it when you go away. That document, not a breed preference, should drive every subsequent decision.
Be honest about time
A working dog needs structured engagement every day for years, not enthusiasm for three months. If you can commit thirty focused minutes daily plus a longer weekend session, you can succeed. If you cannot, choose a lower-drive dog.
Choosing a breeder or supplier
Ask for pedigrees, health scores and unedited video of both parents working. Ask what the line is known for and what it struggles with. A supplier who describes only strengths is selling, not advising.
- Health scores for both parents, in writing
- Full pedigree, three generations minimum
- Video of parents working in real environments
- Willingness to say no to unsuitable buyers
- Written contract, health agreement and return policy
Puppy or started dog?
Puppies offer the strongest bond and full control of raising, at the cost of eighteen months of work and genuine uncertainty about the outcome. A started dog of twelve to eighteen months lets you assess the actual adult temperament and start from a foundation — often the smarter choice for a first working dog.
Budget honestly
Beyond purchase price, budget for training, insurance, quality food, veterinary care, secure fencing, crates, equipment and boarding. Over a decade the dog costs far more than the invoice.
Red flags
Walk away from anyone who will not let you see the dog in an unfamiliar environment, who cannot produce health documentation, who pressures you toward a deposit, or who claims every puppy in the litter is a protection prospect.